Hot on Hilsa

Bengali food at Bhojohori Manna will get you nostalgic, with the restaurant's homely touchBengali food has been hogging the limelight in the culinary circles off late. Koramangala is bustling with restaurants catering to this cuisine Esplanade, Kolkata and now Bhojohori Manna. It's like a new invention as this food is very typical with very unique flavours of bitter, saline, sweet, sour, pungent, astringent and a meticulous and appetising combo of all of these in one or many ways. Bhojohori Manna, my Bong companion tells me, is from a Manna De song from the 70s aami sri sri bhojohori manna. The restaurant is in two levels, though each of them are so narrow that the tables are placed at hardly a feet from each other, with only six tables on the first floor. There's nothing that will strike you about Kolkata here, other than kantha fabric on the chairs, the classic Rabindra Sangeet and the whiff of fish oil in the air. The menu is exhaustive and confusing for those who are not accustomed to Bengali names like koraishutir binuni kochuri, parshe shorshe, chitol muitha, lau ghonto and the likes, with no English translations on the menu. You will need assistance from the serving staff on their recommendations. And the moment you pick something that might catch your fancy; be prepared to hear a, Sorry, we don't have it today, which is quite a downer. Bangla bhoj: The Ilish Shorshe paired with steamed rice is a foodies delight An overview of the restaurant pics/Namita GuptaFor the shukto savvyShukto, a traditional Bengali stew of potatoes, plantains, okra, eggplant and bitter gourd and Mochar Chop (round Rohu fish cutlets) is what you must begin your meal with. If you're a Bong, you will know how Bengalis are sticklers to the order in which they eat their food and the way they like to pair their starters or luchi (an Indian bread made from maida, fried like a puri). My Mutton Dakbangla went well with the luchi, though it was slightly tough with barely any meat on the bones. For vegetarians there is Dhokar Dalna, Chhanar Dalna and Bandhakopir Torkari. Fishy affairBengali specialties here include Jumbo Prawn Malai Curry (Rs 185) and Ilish Shorshe (Rs 130 per piece); former is prawn cooked in a creamy base and the latter the most sought after Hilsa fish cooked to perfection, just the way your grandmom or your beautiful Bengali neighbour would, with lots of oil in an appetizing mustard gravy. Finger-licking. You might like to pass the Bhetki Kalia, which is a tad too salty with oil floating all over. For those who find the curry section a little overwhelming with unique gravy names, pep up your FQ (food quotient) Jhal is spicy, Jhol is thin gravy, Kalia is red gravy, Korma is thick gravy, Shorshe is mustard gravy and malai is cream curry, with each of these gravies prepared with fish, prawn or crab.u00a0 Skip the rosogolla or sandesh for later and try the Natun Gurer Ice Cream, (basically jaggery kheer) promoted to this name, is quite a tongue-tickler. Downside: Most of the preparations are not served on all days, especially during lunch hours.At: Bhojohori Manna, 668/B 6th Block, Koramangala Club Road. Call: 2550 3666Wallet factor: Meal for two, Rs 800. They also have Thalas. Mini Thala for Rs 165 has luchi, chholar dal, aajker bhajabhuji, basanti pulao, choice of vegetable, chutney, papad, dessert of the day. The Maxi Thala for Rs 195, serves rice, shukto, dal of the day, fried dish, Bhaja, pulao, papad and dessert.Bhojohori Manna didn't know we were there. THE GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for the service.