Not just a sidekick: This new book highlights the uniqueness of Indian chutneys

Last Sunday we spent an afternoon having lunch at Aamchee at Gamdevi where the affable Pinky Chandan Dixit and her husband Aasim Dixit played the perfect hosts The curated lunch is inspired by author Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyalrsquos book Chutney Rs 3500 that puts chutneys as the hero ingredient Think Nanirsquos Til Tamatar Chutney Wedges goldenfried potatoes served with a nostalgic family chutneyWarmth and spice show up in unexpected places like Misal Jhol Momos bold Zanzhanit Thecha Mac amp Cheese the comforting Lasaniyu ChilliGarlic Noodles and the completely joyful Ramen Meets Rasam where rasam becomes broth and comfort takes a new form Therersquos heart and heritage in dishes like the Kolkata Beet Chop Au Gratin and Sindhi Seyal Bread Bake and dessert closes the loop with the Cranberry Chutney Trifle sweet tangy familiar yet refreshingChutneys are an integral part of Soam and Aamcheersquos food PIC COURTESY SOAMAAMCHEEGhildiyal feels that because chutneys and pickles sit at the edge of the plate theyrsquove long been treated as secondary Her book is a conscious attempt to change that perception ldquoA conversation with my eightyearold nephew in Australia who thought chutney was just lsquothat spicy green stuffrsquo highlighted how Indian cuisine is often reduced to clicheacutes Around the world our menus present chutney as only green coriander or sweet tamarind while packaged versions add sugar salt and preservatives far from their true essence Add to that the colonial legacy that mislabels chutney as sweet fruity preserves and the distortion is complete This book aims to challenge and correct those stereotypesrdquoldquoFor us this collaboration felt personalrdquo says Pinky ldquoWersquove worked together on many projects but this one is special because it marks Rushinarsquos first foray into selfpublication and chutney is something that finds its way into our meals conversations and kitchen instincts all the time We often spoke about how these condiments donrsquot just sit on the side they carry memory flavour and identity Thatrsquos why this venue felt like the right place to celebrate her book When we curated the menu we were very clear chutney wouldnrsquot just be served as an accompaniment it would live inside the food Dishes werenrsquot simply plated with chutney they were built with it layered with it and inspired by it Some dishes already existed on our menu others were created especially for this collaborationRushina Munshaw GhildiyalInterestingly in 2017 Ghildiyal had created the Indian Food Observance Day calendar including ChutneyDay which sparked an incredible nationwide response of recipes and memories This book grew from that movement as an attempt to document celebrate and preserve this vital part of our culinary heritage As traditions fade with modern lifestyles she feels the ancient regional and diverse chutneys that live in home kitchens are at risk of extinction ldquoFar beyond flavour chutneys carry history nutrition seasonality sustainability and emotion Theyrsquove always been zerowaste instinctive and ahead of modern food trends If this book has taught us anything it is that Indian food cannot be standardised or confined For every chutney documented here countless others exist and many more are still waiting to be bornrdquo she addsPinky Chandan DixitPacked with stories of Chef Ranveer Brarrsquos Biji plucking fresh coriander to make chutney on the spot or Shanti Petiwala turning ridge gourd peels into a soulful Ghosale Gojju or Tanisha Panbuh treasured lsquojamawrsquo bite of rice absorbing the last oils in the mortar make the book personal It showcases how resourcefulness and instinct shape our palate far more than professional kitchens ever couldThe book has beautiful illustrations and documents more than 230 chutneys covering nearly every state and major culinary tradition in India ldquoI wanted to capture the widest possible representation within a strategic framework Mapping every single recipe in existence would be a lifelong task requiring hundreds of volumes instead I aimed to move beyond the lsquobestknownrsquo common denominators to uncover the soul of each region We began with an archive of over 400 unique recipes which we then subjected to a rigorous process of selection elimination and grouping My goal was twofold to represent the limitless forms and flavour profiles of chutney and to showcase the massive biodiversity of Indiarsquos ingredientsrdquo she addsFifty years from now Ghildiyal hopes this book serves as a testament to the instinctive intelligence of the Indian home cook ldquoBeyond the measurements and the ingredients I want it to preserve the memory of a culture that didnrsquot need a manual to be sustainable or a lsquosuperfoodrsquo label to be healthy Specifically I hope Chutney preserves three things The Philosophy of Enough mdash future generations must remember that we were a people who respected the ingredient We didnrsquot see ldquowasterdquo we saw hidden flavour The Art of Andaaz mdash in an increasingly automated world a reminder of a time when cooking was a sensory dialogue and The Democratic Spirit of the Indian Plate Chutney proves that India refuses to be a monolith Even when we eat the same meal we are individuals who customise every bite It is a memory of a country that is exhilaratingly diverse where the ldquoedge of the platerdquo held as much importance complexity and soul as the centerrdquoMohini Raturirsquos til ki tamatar wali chutneyIngredients12 cup coriander seeds toasted12 cup sesame seeds toasted12 cup vegetable oil12 dry red chillies broken2 tbsp cumin seeds1 kg tomatoes chopped500 g potatoes parboiled peeled and dicedSalt to tasteMethodGrind the toasted coriander seeds and sesame seeds to a coarse powder and set aside Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy wok over a medium flame Add the dry red chillies and cumin seeds let them crackle Add chopped tomatoes and cook until soft and the oil begins to separate Add potatoes mix well and cook for 3ndash4 minutes Add the corianderndashsesame powder and salt stir well and cook until the chutney thickens potatoes are fully cooked and oil separates again Turn off the heat transfer to a serving dish and serve immediately Alternatively cool and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to a weekldquoNani as we called my grandmotherinlaw loved to feed her clan I only got a chance to spend time with her on a few occasions but I am fortunate to have learned some of her dishes including this chutney I had forgotten all about it till years later when I found it in my notesrdquo says GhildiyalFor Bhaja MasalaIngredients1 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp coriander seeds12 tsp fennel seeds2 whole dry red chillies2 cloves12 inch cinnamon stickDry roast cool and grind to a fine powderFor the chop layer300 g beetroot cooked and mashed200 g potatoes cooked and mashed100 g carrot cooked and mashed2 tbsp vegetable oil or ghee1 tsp ginger paste1ndash2 green chillies finely chopped2 tbsp raisins1 tsp sugar or to taste12 tsp salt or to tastefrac14 cup fresh coriander leaves choppedFor kashundi potato mash300 g potatoes boiled amp mashed2 tbsp melted butterfrac14 tsp saltfrac14 cup grated cheese2 tbsp kashundi Mix everything till smooth and creamyFor crispy topping 112 cups breadcrumbs frac14 cup roasted peanuts coarsely crushed 2 tbsp melted butter or oil frac14 tsp salt Toss together until evenly coatedMethodFor the chop layer heat oilghee add ginger paste and green chillies sauteacute 30 seconds Add beetroot and carrot cook 5ndash7 minutes until moisture reduces Stir in mashed potatoes Bhaja Masala sugar and salt cook till the mixture leaves the sides of the pan Remove from heat mix in raisins and coriander leaves adjust seasoningTo assemble and bake Preheat oven to 180degC grease a baking dish Spread a thick layer of beetroot chop mixture Add a thin layer of Kashundi potato mash Top with the breadcrumb mixture and press lightly Bake 30ndash35 mins until golden and crisp Let rest 5ndash10 mins Serve hot with Kashundi or ketchup