Why Indian chefs believe great food does not need great suffering

A few days ago The New York Times reported allegations that Reneacute Redzepi the celebrated chef behind Noma the ldquoworldrsquos best restaurantrdquo had punched slammed and inflicted other physical punishments on cooks from 2009 to 2017The report cited accounts from 35 former staff members describing the intense culture of his kitchen and unpaid stagiaires When the news came out corporate sponsors backed off and protests were staged outside the gates of Noma Los Angeles Later Redzepi issued a public apology and stepped down from his post as head chef acknowledging the need for change and accepting responsibility However the revelations reignited a global debate on toxic leadership and labour practices in fine diningRedzepi has been accused of punching a chef in the stomach for leaving a tiny tweezer mark on a FlowerPIC USED FOR REPRESENTATION PURPOSESSameer Taneja who runs Michelinstar restaurant Benares in London and has worked in kitchens across India and abroad says ldquoWhen allegations emerge from one of the worldrsquos most respected restaurants the industry is forced to confront the gap between culinary excellence and workplace wellbeing This isnrsquot about just one individual but about recognising that high standards do not need to come with humiliation intimidation or fear The shift was already underway but this moment may accelerate how kitchen leadership is viewedrdquoBeena NoronhaFor Chrome Hospitalityrsquos Corporate Executive Chef Chirag Makwana who has trained and worked in Canada this is a ldquoglassshattering momentrdquo because the toxic culture was normalised for far too long ldquoIf a restaurant was winning Michelin stars people looked the other way These stories are no longer confined to the kitchen Prestige canrsquot excuse a toxic workplace and the idea that brilliance justifies mistreating staff is finally being questionedrdquo he sharesRene RedzepiNational awardwinning Chef Amninder Sandhu says ldquoFor years fine dining operated on the idea that brilliance justified extreme environments For many chefs of my generation surviving a harsh kitchen was seen as a strength Now more people are questioning whether creativity really needs that kind of pressure because survival should never be the benchmark for a healthy workplacerdquoSaltae Hospitalityrsquos founder Chef Beena Noronha thinks culinary brilliance has been used as a shield for poor leadership for far too long Pressure is part of the profession Abuse should never be The industry has often blurred that line This incident is a reminder that excellence does not require crueltyrdquoKevin GomesChef Kevin Gomes who works in a fivestar hotel kitchen says it is unfair to label all professional kitchens as toxic because every kitchen has its own culture shaped by the chef in charge ldquoThe Redzepi episode spotlights on a longknown reality of how intense professional kitchens are with long 12ndash14hour shifts and kitchen burns or what we call lsquokitchen tattoosrsquo But that should never translate into shouting humiliation Many aspiring cooks are already thinking twice about joining the profession If this generation doesnrsquot change the culture the industry will struggle in the futurerdquoUnderstanding power dynamics and hierarchiesNoma started in 2003 at a 16th century harbourside warehouse in Denmark They moved in 2016 to a former military site with greenhouses for experimentation and have had temporary popups in cities like Tokyo London Tulum Sydney Kyoto and now Los Angeles 2026 The abuse allegations on its head chef and cofounder Reneacute Redzepi has sparked a global debate between those defending traditional methods and those pushing for changeKitchens around the world still operate within similar hierarchies where discipline and expectations follow the traditional brigade system When Vardaan Marwah Chef and Cofounder Farro interned in hotel kitchens in 2017 he recalls an oldschool culture where authority was sometimes misused ldquoIn India cultural respect for elders and authority often makes the lsquoChefrsquo figure feel almost parental for better or worse Abroad particularly in Bangkok where he worked the hierarchy is more transactional and militarylike Many of us promised ourselves that when we ran kitchens we wouldnrsquot create that kind of environmentrdquo he says ldquoToday with more independent restaurants led by younger chefs kitchens are becoming more collaborative and respectful and sans fear or intimidationrdquoVardaan MarwahChef Vijay Sharma name changed recalls long hours and public humiliation early in his career ldquoRaised voices rigid discipline and harsh criticism were seen as training but much of it was tradition not necessity High standards donrsquot need intimidationrdquo Later he trained in processdriven kitchens where discipline came from systems not fear ldquoExcellence can be demanded but once leadership relies on fear over respect the line is crossed Redzepirsquos case is a chance for the industry to rethink mentoring the next generationrdquo he adds Those experiences shaped his own leadership ldquoThey taught me what motivates teams and what breaks them When people feel valued they perform betterrdquoMan in a womanrsquos worldChef Sandhu shares that early in her career while training under the tandoor and kebab ustads she faced bullying ldquoIt was unnecessary with a lot of shouting and pressure to prove myself every day The ustads often illiterate couldnrsquot accept a woman who wanted to be a chef They had never seen women as decisionmakers at home or beyond It wasnrsquot just about the kitchen it was their conditioningrdquo she recalls Noronha shares the challenge is amplified for women chefs because they are constantly proving competence while navigating bias ldquoSome establishments may look progressive on paper but culture determines whether a kitchen feels empowering or exclusionaryrdquo she addsThe faultlines of finediningThe finedining world has long romanticised the ldquotough kitchenrdquo especially in hotels and Noronha says the culture was very real ldquoIntensity often meant shouting or humiliation with young chefs told to endure it as training Many knew which chefs crossed boundaries but it was excused as passion or genius That silence protected power But fear creates compliance not leadership Discipline is about standards and accountability Abuse is personal mdash insults intimidation constant fear Pressure should come from the craft not the person in chargerdquoAmninder Sandhursquos kitchen at Palaash at Tipeshwar near Nagpur is run by an allwomen team recruited from neighbouring villages trained in open fire and traditional cooking techniques to execute the restaurantrsquos sevencourse degustationMakwana recalls that ldquotoughnessrdquo used to be a badge of honour with shouting and humiliation seen as tests of character ldquoOnce for messing up a dish my chef had me wash dishes and clean toilets for a monthrdquo he says Many believed that if you couldnrsquot handle the heat mdash literally and emotionally mdash you didnrsquot belong He adds that while discipline is key for precision intimidation stifles creativity and causes burnoutSandhu recalls shouting was common humiliation often played out midservice and intimidation was treated as training ldquoWhen I started I was spoken to in ways that would be unacceptable todayrdquo she says Tough kitchens and volatile chefs were well known yet young cooks still sought them out mdash it felt like a rite of passage ldquoYou internalised it as the price of entry but much of it had little to do with skill and more with outdated authorityrdquo She adds that the pressure to excel has often blurred the line between discipline and abuse ldquoExcellence punctuality and focus can be demanded without shouting or belittling I expect high standards but create a space where people feel secure while they learn Kitchens will always be intense but fear should never drive themrdquoChirag MakwanaTaneja reflects on a very different early experience ldquoI began my career at Oberoi Rajvilas and it remains one of the best kitchen environments Irsquove worked in The entire hotel operated with a strong sense of dignity We followed a simple rule we are ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemenrdquo He notes that tough leadership was never hidden ldquoMost chefs were open about how they ran their kitchens But discipline and abuse are completely different Abuse often appears when a leader fails to build real discipline The toughest chefs I worked with were deeply committed For them cooking was almost a religion not just a jobrdquoLylarsquos Prawn Sesame ToastMarwah has been fortunate to work with mentors who led with warmth and respect treating teams like friends and family a bond that endures As a selftaught chef he did not come through the traditional hotel route where harsher cultures were more common encountering shouting and abuse only during an internship Later as a young executive chef leading an older team he admits he raised his voice out of frustration A mentorrsquos reminder that shouting does not earn respect changed how he leads kitchens todayCalling out toxic behaviour without risking careersAll the chefs we spoke to agree it is difficult for young chefs to call out toxic behaviour Noronha explains ldquoKitchens are deeply hierarchical and young chefs rely heavily on references and reputation Speaking up can feel like risking your entire career The culture of silence is beginning to crack with younger chefs and new restaurant groups trying to build healthier workplaces even as hierarchy remains deeply ingrained Social media and greater scrutiny have made it harder to hide these stories but fear still keeps many people quietrdquoMakwana says ldquoWithout strong HR structures many are torn between their mental health and career The responsibility for change must rest with owners and head chefs not interns The silence is breaking but the fear hasnrsquot disappeared Thankfully social media is a great equaliser A chefrsquos reputation is shaped not just by critics but by the people who work for them Behaviour that was once hidden is now a PR nightmare forcing change even if only to protect the brandrdquoSandhu confirms the power imbalance ldquoSpeaking up may close doors Thatrsquos why leadership must create systems where concerns can be raised without fear Also since greater online visibility has increased accountability stories travel faster and that scrutiny is making leaders more conscious of their behaviour and kitchen culturerdquoThe future of the Indian kitchenMakwana says India is at a crossroads with globally exposed chefs bringing a progressive collaborative mindset ldquoChange is underway but it is slower in traditional largescale kitchens The industry must move away from the lsquo18hourdayrsquo mentality because a rested respected chef produces better food than the one who is exhausted and fearfulrdquo he addsBenaresrsquo Turkey and chestnut shorbaMarwah agrees ldquoWhen we started 16hour days were normal Now chefs are fine with 8ndash10 hour shifts and we see that happening with more educated chefs and younger restaurateursrdquo Sharma adds the importance of stronger hospitality education global exposure and better HR practices ldquoA brigade spends more time together than with their families When that bond is built on trust rather than fear the team thrivesrdquo he addsSameer TanejaNoronha reiterates that the kitchens of the future must be led by people who produce great food while respecting those who create it Sandhu adds ldquoKitchens were once run like military units with no conversation around mental wellbeing or workndashlife balance Younger chefs today are better travelled more aware of global workplace standards and are asking for change Professional kitchens will always demand discipline speed and intensity but they should also be spaces where young cooks can grow without feeling intimidated The next generation deserves mentorship and the industry is finally beginning to recognise thatrdquoThe alternate viewpointMeera Khanna name changed says ldquoPhysical abuse is unacceptable in any setting It is illegal and if it occurs the recourse should be through the law However when allegations play out online the fallout can extend beyond the individual to families colleagues and teams who had nothing to do with the incidentFor many aspiring chefs from countries like India internships in top kitchens have been the only gateway to learning at that level I reached where I am today because I had those opportunities even when it meant working without pay If that pathway disappears the industry could become even less accessible Elite kitchens already have limited positions If fear of backlash stops them from taking interns young chefs will lose out the most A good mentor knows when to be strict when to guide and when to step back I worry that if everything plays out instantly online that system of learning could slowly eroderdquoAbuse is genderagnosticChef Amal Farooque says ldquoHigh standards cannot justify breaking people However one must understand that our profession is often misunderstood Kitchens are highpressure environments with relentless timelines and scrutiny and chefs are deeply emotional people driven by instinct and intensity as they put their heart on a plate They also carry the weight of public criticism Reviews can be harsh especially when people dismiss food they do not understand That constant negativity can take a toll on those who spend years perfecting their craftI went through extreme training early in my career but it never shaped the way I lead Discipline is essential in my kitchen but so is respect Service may be intense and communication quick but it should never cross into humiliation or violencerdquo Farooque also highlights that abuse in kitchens is not limited to women Male chefs also face bullying and harassment but are often discouraged from speaking about it ldquoAbuse is abuse regardless of genderrdquo she addsNoted desi Noma alumsgtgt thinspGarima Aroragtgt thinspPrateek Sadhugtgt thinspNiyati Raogtgt thinspMythrayie Iyergtgt thinspVanshika Bhatiagtgt thinspDhriti Arora