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How this Mumbai family built a restaurant's legacy one dish at a time

From batter to brand: What began as a humble kitchen venture has grown into a beloved culinary legacy — a dream shaped by family, fuelled by passion, and shared with an entire city

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Beena, Hemul, and Vir Gandhi of Dakshinayan. Pic/Ashish Raje

Beena, Hemul, and Vir Gandhi of Dakshinayan. Pic/Ashish Raje

In November last year, veteran actress Zeenat Aman shared that she visits Dakshinayan in Juhu for her regular fix of dosa, podi, ghee, and idli. Her post sparked a flood of comments, each echoing what the restaurant means to Mumbai’s diners. Known for its unfussy South Indian fare and comforting atmosphere, Dakshinayan has quietly earned its place as a city favourite. And the family behind it? As unpretentious as the food they serve. Over steaming thatte idlis, Mysore dosas, and filter coffee, we sat down to hear a story of determination, family ties, and a deep love for feeding people.

It all began at their Altamount Road home in the late 1990s. One afternoon, Beena Gandhi casually mentioned making and selling idli-dosa batter from home. Having grown up in Coimbatore, a town steeped in culture, her palate was shaped by the comforting rhythms of South Indian food. “Back home,  mornings began with cleaning the porch and making kolam, followed by temple visits. Women in saris with flowers in their hair were a common sight. At home and outside, it was always idli, dosa, and rice — the flavours we grew up with, our true comfort food.”

Within minutes, her father-in-law, Jayant Gandhi, had called friends and family, announcing that they were taking orders, a small gesture, that revealed the family’s entrepreneurial spirit.

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