Indian food researcher, top chef on using whole spices and eating safely

The arrival of readymade masala mixes was considered to be the next step in the Indian culinary process speeding it up for workingclass families across Indian cities In April 2024 Singapore and Hong Kong flagged two popular Indian masala brands for adulterated content Subsequently raids by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India FSSAI have unearthed large scale adulteration in Delhi and Hyderabad For homemakers and chefs it is a hammer blow to the one ingredient the Indian kitchen cannot do without mdash the powdered masala To combat this the ICMR Indian Council of Medical Research recently suggested buying whole spices rather than powdered mixes to avoid adulterantsCustomers shop for spices at Ashok Khamkarrsquos store near Chivda Gully in Lalbaug File picsManish Mehrotra culinary director Indian Accent tells us ldquoTraditional masalas were always part of Indian cuisine But it is never one or two spices Indian cuisine works on spice blends Different varieties of blends are required according to cuisine from different parts of Indiardquo For Maharashtra alone the chef outlines the goda masala Kolhapuri masala and Malvani masala ldquoThere is also the chaat masala buknu masala and others across regionsrdquo he points outDespite the concerns it is impossible for Indian cooks to avoid using masalas Mehrotra remarks ldquoThe right blend of spice and its quantity lends identity to Indian cuisine Each blend is unique and the way in which Indians use it to create balance flavour and aroma makes thedish interestingrdquoWhile the readymade masala has been taken for granted its role and importance mean the Indian customer needs to be more careful when making the purchase ldquoFSSAI and other authorities are working hard but it is impossible to end it completely It falls upon the consumer to be more aware and proactiverdquo says Ashwin Bhadri CEO of Equinox Labs an FSSAIapproved pan India food testing laboratory While it is impossible to eliminate adulteration completely mdash even in the purchase of whole spices from spice markets he says mdash the rise of campaigns for awareness like LabelPadhegaIndia is starting to have an effect he points outManish MehrotraOn the other hand the risks of ignorance are multiple Bhadri notes that the dangers of consuming food made from poor or adulterated spices can be something as simple as a tummy ache to food poisoning or even fatal issuesDetection can sometimes be simple using traditional methods As a restaurateur Mehrotra shares how he has cultivated trusted resources and spice merchants for over three decades Know your masalas he says adding ldquoThe fragrance of a masala is an indicator of its freshness then comes the colour and feel of the spice Buying from a trusted resource also ensures that you have access to the freshest supplies As restaurateurs we build relationships with spice merchants I have a family from Kolhapur who have made our buknu masala for us for over 35 yearsrdquoWhere such access is difficult Bhadri suggests using the FSSAI recommended Detect Adulteration with Rapid Test DART ldquoThere is a detailed PDF available on the FSSAI website fssaigovin that outlines simple methods using home materials to check for adulteration You may not be able to check for advanced pesticides but can discover basic adulterants such as sawdust poor quality or other seeds in your spicesrdquo he says When buying from wholesale markets he also emphasises on the importance of buying from trusted sourcesAs for quick fixes Mehrotra says ldquoThere is no fix in Indian cuisine for when you get the masala wrong The balance and quality of masala will show through in your food It takes years of experience to get the balance identification and flavour of the masalas right It is a skill developed over years of practicerdquo Foodies across India might just need to up their skill levels nowCheck list Fragrance of a spice denotes its freshness The touch and feel of a spicersquos texture is a good way to identify if it is good for use Always choose to buy from a trusted source and known spice merchant Spice factor Sanjeevani Masala store for Maharashtrian masalasAT P Balu Marg PrabhadeviCALL 24318906 Damji Manji Dry Fruit and KiranaAT Bara Imam Road Null Bazar BhuleshwarCALL 9820487100 GW Khamkar Masala for goda masalaAT Shop 3 Lalbaug Market ParelLOG ON TO gwkhamkarcom Shiv Sai Mangalore General Stores for Mangalorean masalasAT Shop 57 Grand Square Ghodbunder Road Thane WestCALL 9082143357 Sarvodayarsquos for goda masalaAT 356 Ranade Road Dadar WestCALL 9775717171 East Indian Cozinha bottle masalaCALL 9987869691 Cray Cray Foods East Indian bottle masalaCALL 989261866