There's a new restaurant in Bandra, and here's what you need to know about it

Remember Seijo amp The Soul Dish the highend Japanese lounge on Waterfield Road that opened two decades ago That was Bombayrsquos era of Olive Indigo and Henry Tham mdash a time of style finesse and quiet refinementOver the last 15 years Mumbairsquos dining scene has undergone significant changes ldquoItrsquos become a puddle of entrylevel restaurants and bars mdash I include myself in that I started WTF 15 years ago and that lowbarrier trendy format became the norm Now there are a zillion of them Culturally wersquove lost that sense of exclusivity The audience has grown but nothing feels elevated anymorerdquo veteran restaurateur Kishore DF elaboratesRoasted Peruvian chicken and Miss MargotHis new venture Miss Margot launched yesterday is about revisiting Seijo mdash bringing that energy back but reimagined for today he tells this reviewer ldquoI wanted to create a space that feels more adult more sophisticated and elegant mdash because therersquos an opportunity Itrsquos still a business risk sure but I think the city is ready for itrdquo Designed by Shabnam Gupta of The Orange Lane it is a return to the classic lounge A wall of flickering candles at the entrance slows you down before yoursquove even stepped in Inside a long bar stretches beneath low chandeliers framed by emerald walls velvet seating and aged mirrors etched with French graffitiIt opens at 6 pm and looks like the space where yoursquod like to unwind dress up and slip into meaningful evenings While itrsquos open to patrons across ages wersquore pretty sure that it will be a hit among 30plus diners who appreciate a slowpaced classy night outBaby tomato discs and Wanderlust old fashionedPartnering on Miss Margot is internationallyacclaimed bar consultant and global spirits ambassador Dimitri lsquoDimirsquo Lezinska mdash a pioneer of Londonrsquos rsquo90s cocktail renaissance and the first Global Ambassador for Grey Goose With over 25 years behind iconic bars like Atlantic LAB Soho and our own The Bombay Canteen during launch Lezinska brings a philosophy of balance restraint and craft ldquoKishore and I have been friends since I first came to India Irsquove seen what hersquos built mdash the consistency the impact Irsquove never wanted to partner on a venue but when someone brings clarity and purpose itrsquos hard to say no We aligned quickly mdash on tone vision and the kind of experience we want to offer Bombay patrons Food and drink are always subjective mdash but get the hospitality right and people remember India has come a long way I recall when bartenders wouldnrsquot even make eye contact Thatrsquos changed mdash but therersquos still work to dordquo His vision is all about range and precision ldquoNo gimmicks no theatrics This is for the discerning Whether itrsquos a clean martini or something with more flair itrsquos about balance clarity and control Every flavour has a reason Nothing is there by accidentrdquo he explainsDimitri lsquoDimirsquo Lezinska Kishore DF Parth Purandare PicsSayyed Sameer AbediThe menu led by chef Parth Purandare draws on European technique Japanese precision and Asian comfort mdash familiar to Mumbai but with a refreshingly offbeat edge It mirrors Dimirsquos bar philosophy thoughtful crafted but never overdone ldquoMiss Margot is a bar first but the food has to hold its own mdash because here food isnrsquot an addon itrsquos part of the nightrdquo says Purandare We started with the Baby tomato discs Rs 675 mdash sharp fresh and clean with black garlic pureacutee parmesan cream cheese and a hint of truffle The Haysmoked salad R900 with ponzu gentlemanrsquos relish and tobiko was light and briny The Roasted Peruvian chicken Rs 800 brought heat from aji amarillo South American hot chili pepper balanced with lemon zest and crispy leeks Pepper jackfruit tacos Rs 675 with green chilli ranch were playful and unexpected The Tom yum gambas Rs 1000mdash bold and balanced mdash came in a punchy citrusy broth laced with umamiOn the bar front our dining companion tried the Miss Margot Rs 850 mdash smooth slightly dry with cherry citrus and just enough presence The Wanderlustrsquos Old fashioned reworked the classic with saffron and barley mdash deep but easy Her favourite the Inquisitive cat Rs 950 mdash fresh and zesty with a prawndriven savoury twist and a citrusy fizz The Bubbles amp bliss Rs 850 came close mdash light fruity and just bitter enough In a city where bars are by the dozen this is where you can show up for yourself Will it work Maybe But itrsquos the kind of risktaking that Mumbai should get used toMiss MargotAt 1st Floor VN Sphere Mall Linking Road Bandra WestTime 6 pm to 1 amCall 9082278702