Barely two hours from Ahmedabad are the twin bird sanctuaries of Nalsarovar and Thol, which boast of an impressive line-up of resident and migratory species including the Black-Tailed Godwit that flies over 3,500 km from as far as central Europe
Barely two hours from Ahmedabad are the twin bird sanctuaries of Nalsarovar and Thol, which boast of an impressive line-up of resident and migratory species including the Black-Tailed Godwit that flies over 3,500 km from as far as central Europe Pelicans line up the waterways inside Nalsarovar Sanctuary.
For wildlife enthusiasts, a trip to Ahmedabad doesn't exactly thrill the senses. But not too far away from this bustling city are two lesser-known lakes Nalsarovar and Thol. Situated 50 and 40 kms away respectively, both are large water bodies, and differ from each other in colour and character.
Meet the Twins
Nalsarovar is a lake that lies between the plains of central Gujarat and eastern Saurashtra. The water here is salty, and it's believed to be the remnants of a sea that once existed between the Little Rann and the Gulf of Khambat. Thol, on the other hand is a freshwater lake, surrounded by scrubland forests.
After an overnight train journey from Mumbai, we alighted at Ahmedabad in the wee hours of the morning and proceeded to Thol. Declared as a Bird Sanctuary in 1988, it's a small lake of seven sq kms. Like its twin Nalsarovar, it's acknowledged as a birdwatcher's delight. Our driver stopped at a dhaba on the way, where we were served the most delicious faafdas (savouries) and steaming hot jalebis for breakfast.
A 90-minute drive took us to Thol. While driving to the lake, look out for the variety of birds that populate the pools and canals. The jeep halted at the last point from where we walked through the scrubland forest to reach the lake. What struck us initially was the sheer number of bird species, in the forest as well as in the waters of the lake.
In the cacophony of the bird sounds, it was difficult to identify every species, individually. Only after we were able to spot them did we realise that these feathered residents included Bulbuls, Flycatchers, Robins, Parakeets and Bee-Eaters. The Night Heron on the topmost branch of a tree basking in the morning sun was the lone silent exception.
In and around the lake were a host of resident and migratory birds. The highlights were a group of Pelicans strutting around the lakes' shallow waters, a lone Black Ibis with its distinct red crest, and a pair of Sarus Cranes, the tallest flying bird on earth.
Birds, I View
Since there was no facility for staying back, we beat a reluctant retreat after hours of bird spotting at Thol and proceeded to Nalsarovar. An hour's drive took us to this unique habitat a lake surrounded by marshlands and small exotic islands. Nalsarovar Lake is seasonal and spreads over 115 sq km.
The spectacle on display was breathtaking, as we headed towards this bird paradise. A large expanse of water was in front of us, waves shimmering in the light of the early afternoon. Boats of all colours and hues were bobbing lazily on the edge of the lake, waiting for customers.
After a hearty Gujarati lunch and afternoon siesta at Toran, the lone guesthouse in these parts, we ventured towards the lake. On the edge of the lake live a friendly tribe called the Padhars, excellent cooks and expert boatmen, with their beautiful homes built on the blue periphery.
The first sight that welcomed us was a flock of seagulls swooping down from the skies as we sprinkled the groundnuts we had brought from one of the families near the boat jetty. These gulls made a racket as they fought with each other to share the windfall.
As the boatman navigatedu00a0 us through the reeds to reach the first island, a shepherd community called the Bharwads, who inhabit these islands, welcomed us. The tea we had there, made from the fresh milk of their buffaloes was one of our most memorable cuppas.
Energised, we got back into the boat, and proceeded towards the middle of the lake, to the flamingo point. It was sight to behold. Before us, hundreds of flamingos descended into the lake to feed, and at the slightest pretext took off into the skies.
They formed a series of garlands in the sky before they came back to settle in the marshlands, keeping a respectable distance from their human visitors.
As a Black-Tailed Godwit floated on the still waters, a thought crossed the mind. Even as we crib about our daily commute, this bird has actually flown over 3,500 km, from central Europe. Just to be in this paradise called Nalsarovar.
Together, forever
The beauty of the Sarus Crane species is that they pair for life, always flying as a couple. The belief that when one of them dies, the partner mourns itself to death has inspired poets across the world to write about this amazing relationship.
Nalsarovar's other star attractions
Kingfishers, Egrets, Darters, Storks, Cormorants, Jacanas, Moorhens, Coots, Grebes and Ducks
Thol'su00a0other star attractions
Mallards, Greylag Cheese, Spotted Fly Catchers, Eurasian Curlews
How to reach
Take any overnight train to Ahmedabad. Hire a vehicle from a reputed travel agency/ car service. Ahmedabad-Thol is 50 kms, Thol-Nalsarovar is 30 kms.
Where to stay
Toran, run by Gujarat Tourism, is the only hotel in Nalsarovar. Call: 22024925.
Ideal duration: 2 days and 1 night
Best time: Monsoon, for resident birds; winter, for migratory birds
Birdu00a0Watching
The sanctuaries are busiest on weekends and holidays. To see the birds, ideally, hire a boat for a few hours with a guide to help identify the birds. Or else, any recommended book on Indian birds will help spot birds here. Late Dr Salim Ali's published works also make for a handy reference.
Must carry
Powerful binoculars
Windcheater/Cap
Drinking water
Guide book
Camera and batteries
Floaters/flip flops, waterproof footwear
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