Soul curry for North Delhi

06 June,2011 07:09 AM IST |   |  Rocky Thongam

When you leave this restaurant in North Delhi you'll be fiddling with your belt, something the snobbish South Delhi ones can't make you do


When you leave this restaurant in North Delhi you'll be fiddling with your belt, something the snobbish South Delhi ones can't make you do

Thomas Keller, the chef, restaurateur and cookbook writer has one matter-of-fact thing to say when it comes to food: 'A recipe has no soul. You, as the cook, must bring it to the recipe.' What grandma does with her age-old recipes, you'll argue, best defines the true meaning of this statement. But that's as emotional as it gets. When you walk into a restaurant you walk with a certain scepticism (at least I do). Good food -- may be yes, but heartfelt devotion, you feel, for your grub put across on a platter, well very few restaurants manage to do that. But I walked into one on Saturday. Ironically, I found itu00a0 in Bellagio, a restaurant in Ashok Nagar and not in over-swamped south Delhi



True as they come

Now, when I think of it, it's not paradoxical at all. South Delhi restaurants have a
certain snob factor which translates into lots of cuisines and ideas to play with resulting into a potpourri you sometimes find disturbing. Didn't someone say too many cooks spoil the broth?u00a0 Certain pockets of north, in that sense, is catching up (fortunately or unfortunately) but you have always had patrons who prefer robust food -- nothing fancy but quality improvement of food they have always loved.

Chandni chowk and china
Bellagio, has a lounge called By the Way, a banquet hall and a terrace section is on the way. But it is the Indian (Soul Curry) and Chinese (Red) restaurants where the real action lies. So you see nothing fancy but sticking to what works best in north India. But the devotion shows. Try the Broccoli wrapped chicken to believe that and I have a long list of starters. Add to that the Chicken Shumai (the last bite doesn't leave those uncooked lumps in the dough which hardens with time). Another wonderful entry from the Chinese kitchen is Crispy Spinach with Corn. Trust me, if you have a kid who hates his veggies, he won't say no to this one (go slow on the pepper though). The Lotus fairy (fried lotus stems in sauce) is another one you could try with closed eyes.
The Indian starters like Murg Malai Tikka, Murg Tikka Saagwala, the Galouti Kabab you can easily sink your teeth into are worth trying. However, avoid the fish. For the vegetarians the Cheese Kurkuri is the best bet, I tried their Paneer Kalimirch, Hara Kabab and Veg Seekh Kabab as well but I will still bet my money on the Kurkuri, something I was reluctant to try first.
u00a0
Your belt is the judge
Now the Chinese main course -- Garlic flavoured rice -- thumbs up to that. Imagine a bowl of steaming sweet smelling white rice cooked with garden fresh garlic. How many of you can resist the aroma? Taste it with Diced Chicken in Red Sauce. The Beijing Lamb stew is a rockstar. For the Indian main course I gave the chef a free hand. So I had Bhindi Masala, Murg Lazzat Awadhi. But the surprise entry -- Nalli ka Korma. Yes, it takes a fantastic chef to make you feel like a Hyderabadi Nizam in Delhi.
On the way back home I kept struggling with my belt and trust me when you have been in North Delhi, that means you have a bloody good time with your food.

At: Bellagio, 13-14, Ashok Vihar, Phase II
Timings: 11 am- 3 pm (lunch) & 7 pm-12.30 am (dinner)
Ring: 47310600
Meal for two: Rs 900 + taxes

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